Solid Wood Floor Fitting Instrucion

Site conditions are extremely important and can make all the difference to a timber floor. The overall fabric (walls, floors, timber etc) of the building should be thoroughly dried out so that there are no visible signs of moisture or condensation. All wet work(concrete, plastering etc) must be completed and thoroughly dry before you even think of having the flooring delivered. It is crucial that any newly built or extended environment is dehumidified by either running the heating system for a prolonged period with good ventilation or alternatively a dehumidifier can be used.
The effects of heating and climate on stability
As mentioned before the timber needs to acclimatise
Expansion gaps are left around the perimeter of the floor
Seasonal variations and levels of heating may cause the timber to expand and contract. Small gaps may appear during winter when the heating is turned up, but these should close up again during the summer months. Timber kiln dried to 7-10% moisture content will react adversely to humidity levels below 35% and above 65% so for these extreme environments advice should be sought as to how suitable various products are.
Areas exposed to excessive variation in heat and humidity are not suitable for a solid timber floor, in this environment an engineered floor is more suitable.
Finishing
Unfinished boards generally need a light sanding with a finishing orbital sander and 120-150 grit paper. Vacuum to remove all dust and then using a finish of your choice seal the floor. Such as:
Osmo hard wax oil: very similar to treatex but with a slower rate of drying. Very easy to re-oil and to spot repair.
Bona Traffic: A 2pack waterborne 100% polyurethane floor lacquer, ideal for commercial and domestic areas subject to extremely high levels of use or where a very matt finish is required. Coverage = approximately 45-50m2 per 4.5ltr + .5ltr pack. Apply with a BonaKemi roller or other suitable applicator which must be dry when used.
Bona Mega: Single pack waterborne 100% polyurethane oxygen cross linking wood floor lacquer, ideal for commercial and domestic areas subject to heavy wear. Coverage approximately 45-50m2 per 5ltr can.
Maintenance
Always have a dust-attracting mat at entrance sites; this will prevent any sharp stones or dirt scratching the floor.
In a domestic situation a California mop will keep floors clean and dust free. Always vacuum, sweep or dry mop the floor before you clean with a maintenance product. Use felt pads on the feet of furniture to protect the floor from excessive scratching. We do have a comprehensive list of maintenance products in stock and we will give you all the advice, help and products you will need to keep your floors looking good.
In a commercial location a full maintenance schedule is available in many situations the manufacturer of the product sealing the timber will talk to and train the cleaning staff. Felt pads or other forms of protection need to be used on the feet or base of furniture to protect from excessive scratching of the floor. Heavy scratching will break seal of the lacquer causing damage to the timber by the ingress of dirt and moisture from cleaning.
If you maintain your floor, the original seal should remain intact and so should alleviate the need for re-sanding and sealing. This can be achieved through using polishes on lacquered floors and regular oiling/cleaning of oiled floors.
Installation guide
Fitting instructions
Nail down method onto existing floor boards, plywood, chipboard, floor joists or batons
Suitable products:
All Engineered and solid wood floors.
Fitting instructions: Nail down method
Once the room has been measured and an allowance made to cover wastage, the moisture content of the sub floor and walls checked and the sub floors confirmed as clean, dry and flat: -
We recommend that you should lay heavy duty bitumen backed builders paper under all nail down installations as a precaution against cupping due to damp ingress
Plan floors usually work best when laid down the longest wall length
Make sure that you inspect each board before you install it
The groove of the floor is laid against the wall
A gap must be left between the boards and the perimeter wall / skirting
This gap is called an expansion gap and must be a minimum of 10mm
Plastic spacers are available to create this gap on your starter row
Now lay your first row against the wall
Use a Powernail nailer with 38mm L nails for floorboards, board products and 50mm for joists
The Powernail nailer needs to be properly set up to fire the nail into the correct position and depth into tongue
It is also important that the floorboard is not too tightly fixed to the subfloor again this is part of the Powernail nailer setup
Nail every 250mm along the board for floorboards/board products or into every joist/baton
The support from the grooves on the ends of each board means that they do not have to end on a floor joist/baton
Use the off cut from the last board to start the next row, making sure that the ends of the next row of boards are staggered at least 400mm from the previous row. A parquet clamp is useful for fitting these first few rows
Any damaged boards can be cut in half and also used to start new rows
Continue across the floor until you reach the last row
Cut the last row of boards to leave a 10mm gap and then use a parquet clamp to edge the final row of boards into place
You can install skirting, scotia and L/T section or Reducer as required
Your floor should now be properly protected until it is ready for handover
For solid boards over 160mm wide we recommend that you follow the instructions above with additional use of wooden adhesive if over concrete, flooring grade chipboard/ply needs to be installed.

Fitting instructions: Glue down method
Onto plywood or chipboard (with no under-floor heating) or onto concrete (with no under-floor heating)
Suitable products:
All solid wood and engineered wood floors.
Wood blocks and hand made panels
For installation over concrete please follow the additional preparation instructions as detailed below:
For all installations a minimum of one coat of primer should be used
For sub-floors with a RH greater than 2% (and less than 5%) you will need to use two coats of primer
For sub-floors with an RH greater than 5% please call for our specific recommendations
Fitting instructions
Once the room has been measured an allowance made to cover wastage, the moisture content of the sub-floor and walls checked and the sub-floors confirmed as clean, dry and flat:
Your sub-floor should now be clean, dry and level
Plank floors usually work best when laid down the longest wall length
For wood blocks/panels you will need to work out where the central axis of the room runs. laying strings from corner to corner will assist this.
We advise that you glue several rows of planks at a time
Pre-cut these rows, making sure that the board lengths are staggered to ensure that the ends of different boards do not match up
Use the off cut from the last board to start the next row, making sure that the ends of the next row of boards are staggered at least 400mm from the previous row. A parquet clamp is useful for fitting these first few rows
Any damaged boards can be cut in half and also used to start new rows
A gap must be left between the boards and the perimeter wall/skirting
This gap is called an expansion gap and must be a minimum of 10mm.
Plastic spacers are available to create this gap on your starter row
Make sure that this gap remains even at doorways
Once the first few rows of boards are ready it is time to spread the wooden adhesive
The wooden adhesive needs to be spread using a fine notched trowel-3mm
Work across the floor using this method of pre-cutting, gluing and then installing
Once the floor is complete clean off any adhesive residues before fully hardened
You can install skirting, scotia and L/T sections or Reducers as required
Your floor should now be properly protected until it is ready for handover
For solid boards over 160m wide we recommend that you follow the instructions above with additional nail fixings at 200mm centres. If over concrete flooring grade chipboard needs to be installed

Fitting instructions : Floating method
Onto plywood, chipboard or concrete with no under-floor heating
Suitable products:
All 14mm and 20mm engineered wood floors
Never float a solid wood floor
Fitting instructions
Once the room has been measured and an allowance made to cover wastage, the moisture content of the sub-floor and walls checked and the sub floors confirmed as clean, dry and flat:-
Your sub-floor should now be clean dry and level
If the RH of the sub floor is higher than 2% you must use a underlay with a built in moisture barrier (polyprotect used with adhesive tape or universal with an integrated moisture barrier and sound reduction
Plank floors usually work best when laid down the longest wall length
You will need to glue tongue and grooved based products along the top of the tongue on both the sides and ends with d3 adhesive
Click system floors do not require any glue
Make sure that you inspect each board before you install it
The groove of the floor is laid against the wall
A gap must be left between the boards and the perimeter wall/skirting
This gap is called an expansion gap and must be a minimum of 10mm
Plastic spacers are available to create this gap on your starter row
Now lay your first row against the wall and continue down the floor
Use the off cut from the last board to start the next row making sure that the ends of the next row of boards are staggered at least 400mm from the previous row a parquet clamp is useful for fitting these first few rows
Any damaged boards can be cut in half and also used to start new rows
Continue across the floor until you reach the last row
Cut the row of boards to leave a 10mm gap and then use a pulling iron to edge the final row of boards into place
You can install Skirting, Scotia and L/T sections and Reducers as required
Your floor should now be properly protected until it is ready for handover

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Solid Hardwood Flooring - Would it Be an Ideal Choice?

Solid hardwood floors - one of the most sought after features of any home. Hardwood flooring adds elegance to your home and if it is laminate flooring, a new feel and fresh touch will be there. However, the main concern of a wooden floor is its age. After few years, you'd need to renovate or refinish the hardwood flooring. Before buying hardwood floor, you should consider for which part of your home you're buying the wood. If you're buying hardwood for damp areas such as bathroom and kitchen, solid hardwood would not be an ideal choice as it cannot accompany your home for a longer period of time because of the moisture.

Even then, if you want hardwood flooring in your bathroom or kitchen go for engineered wood flooring which is processed by interior professionals. In engineered hardwood, the top surface of plywood is covered by finished hardwood. There is a range of varieties available in engineered hardwoods. You can choose from 2 ply to 10 ply construction as per your requirements and budget. You must enticed by laminate flooring because of its variety in color, style and pattern that suits the interiors of your home in best possible way. However, laminate floors are not real hardwoods and their quality cannot match with the class of engineered wood and hardwood. Laminate flooring cannot tolerate moisture like engineered wood. Moreover, it is a fake wood therefore, you cannot sand it.

Solid hardwood floorings are classified into three categories: parquet, plank and strip. If you're looking for designer floor and a patterned solid hardwood, you should buy parquet. You will see a geometric pattern in the individual squares of parquet wood. In strip wood there is no pattern. The simple wood is available in various sizes; the width will vary between 1.5 and 2.75 inches and will be between 5/16" and 3/4" thick. If you find not enough wide for your hardwood flooring plan, you can try plank which is quite wider than strip hardwood and thickness could be anywhere between 3 inches to 8 inches.

Once you've selected what kind of solid hardwood flooring will be ideal for your home and installed it. Now you should know how to maintain it so that you don't need to spend again on the hardwood flooring in next few years. The solid hardwoods are very easy to clean. Keep your floor free from grit and dirt as they can make your floor full of dents and scratches. If you want long lasting flooring; clean it regularly. Does it mean that you should clean the laminate flooring everyday with water? First you should check if the floor is quite old and has got scratches and seems to be getting dull everyday, don't use water at all. In case, finishing is good and there are no dents and scratches, mop it with water which will add a new shine to it. To keep the hardwood flooring free from dirt, you should keep floor mats in the doorways. It will keep you flooring clean and home healthy.

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A Look at Solid Hardwood Floors

Solid hardwood floors should neither be installed over a concrete slab nor below ground level because of high moisture sensitivity. Unsightly gaps appear when moisture dries and the floors contract in the winter heating months. The floors expand and gaps disappear during summers. The wood planks may buckle or cup because of excessive moisture. In view of these facts, enough space should be left for expansion and wood should be acclimated. Nail-down installations are most appropriate for these floors. The possibility of re-coating and refinishing increases the life and appearance of solid hardwood floors. Generally solid hardwood floors are made up of ash, maple, red oak and white oak.

Solid wood floorings are divided into three sub categories: strip flooring, plank flooring and parquet flooring. Thickness of strip flooring varies between 5/16 inch and ¾ inch. Available widths are 1 ½ inch, 2 inch and 2 ¼ inch. Though plank flooring is sold in two thicknesses, width can range between 3 inches and 8 inches. Parquet flooring has geometrical patterns that are created with wood slats.

Hand-scraped hardwood floors are hand crafted. Character markings on handscraped hardwood floors (hand sculptured floors) are a unique feature. These floors offer the best finishes for either the modern world look or the old reclaimed wood floor look. Both engineered and solid hand sculpted floors are sold. Beautiful handscraped hardwood floors are very expensive. Engineered handscraped hardwood floors are best suited for a structure erected on a concrete slab and in high humidity conditions. A few companies also market distressed hardwood flooring that has machine made markings unlike hand made markings in handscraped hardwood floor. Handscraped floor is costlier than distressed version, but both floorings offer a rich look.

Hardwood floors should be cleaned with products recommended by the manufacturer. Regular use of a vacuum cleaner will clean dirt, mud, grit and small stones that may spoil the finish. Welcome mats at the entrance for wiping feet before walking on the floor are of great help in protecting the finish. When choosing furniture for you home, do not buy products with sharp metal or wooden legs to prevent denting and scratching. Use of furniture coasters or felt protectors for all legs will prevent scratching. Non-staining and wide rubber cups are a must for heavy items like piano. The use of a paste wax on the hardwood floor with a polyurethane finish damages the finish. Spills on hardwood floors need immediate attention. Clean them with a paper towel or damp white cloth and dry the area.

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Solid Hardwood Flooring vs Engineered

Solid Hardwood Floors

Appearance, historical: Solid hardwood floors have been used for centuries, and they never seem to loose their charm and warmth. There are solid wood floors that are several centuries old and are still in good condition today.

Construction: Solid wood floors are one solid piece of wood that come in either prefinished or unfinished styles. Solid is milled from a single 3/4" thick piece of hardwood: 3/4" thick plank that is in narrow 2 1/4" strips. This is the classic strip wood floor but the solid wood floors can be manufactured in a variety of widths and thicknesses. The most popular hardwood species used for solid wood floors are red oak, white oak, ash and maple.

Refinishing: Because of its thickness, a solid hardwood floor can be sanded and refinished over several generations of use. You can refinish, or recoat solid wood floors several times, which adds to their appeal and to their long life.

Moisture, humidity: One of the properties of solid wood flooring is that it expands and contracts with changes in your home's relative humidity. Normally, installers compensate for this movement by leaving an expansion gap between the floor and the wall. Base molding or quarter round is traditionally used to hide the extra space. The other very important characteristic of solid wood floors is that they react to the presence of moisture. In the winter heating months, moisture leaves the wood causing the floor to contract which leaves unsightly gaps between each plank. In the summer months when the humidity is higher the wood will expand and the gaps will disappear. If there is too much moisture it may cause the wood planks to cup, or buckle. This is why it is important when installing a solid strip floor to leave the proper expansion area around the perimeter and to acclimate the wood prior to installation. Solid wood floors are sensitive to moisture and it is not recommended to install these floors below ground level, or directly over a concrete slab. These floors are for nail-down installations only.

Engineered Hardwood Floors

Prefinished engineered wood floors have become extremely popular and offer many advantages over solid wood floors. These floors are very durable, come in a wide variety of styles and hardwood species, and can be used in almost any room in the home. Engineered hardwood floors are constructed from several thin sheets of wood that are laminated together to form one plank.

Engineered floors are actually produced with three to five layers of hardwood. Each layer is stacked in a cross-grain configuration and bonded together under heat and pressure. These floors will range from 1/4" to 9/16" in thickness, and from 2 1/4" to 7" in width. The lengths will generally be random and range from 12" v 60" in length.

In the manufacturing of engineered hardwood floors the wood plies are stacked on top of each other in the opposite directions. By having plies reversed they help counteract the natural tendency of wood to expand and contract with different levels of humidity and moisture. Engineered wood planks are much more dimensionally stable than solid wood and can be used over wooden subfloors or concrete slabs.

If moisture is a concern, then you should consider an engineered wood floor versus a solid wood floor. The finish layer of an engineered wood floor can be a different wood specie then the plies underneath because this allows manufacturers of engineered wood floors to offer a wide variety of both domestic and exotic hardwood species without driving the costs out of sight. You can use these floors in almost any area in the home because of its dimensional stability. Most engineered floors can be nailed-down, stapled-down, glued-down or floated over many different types of subfloors. As a result, engineered wood flooring is less likely to be affected by changes in humidity and can be installed at all levels of the home.

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Solid Wood and Solid Wood Flooring

In the next few paragraphs, we will explore new ideas and thoughts that may help you achieve your goal and decide what is best for you. When you think of solid wood basing, you doubtless think of bases with beauty, love, and endurance. Hardwood bases make an elegant and ageless addition to your home.

What is frozen covert?

frozen covert is a name worn to distinguish between engineered wood and steady timber. frozen wood is steady timber. Most people respect solid wood more attractive than engineered wood, such as fiberboard, while the appearance of fiberboard is sometimes enhanced with a solid wood facade.

During the second part, we must switch to a more serious side to fully communicate the subject matter in a way for all to understand.

Eco-sociable frozen covert

frozen wood is commonly significantly more luxurious than engineered wood and solid wood is not respected an eco-sociable basing liquid. When selecting a solid wood base, you can prefer solid wood basing that has the been harvested from a sustainable reforest. Sustainability is the notion that culture should improve while pleasing the environment into account, which means re-seeding reforesting and warning yearly deforestation. Look for forest Stewardship congress (FSC) expert forest. Dozens of types of wood are established in FSC-expert reforests in which the foliage are regenerated, biodiversity is sealed, and air and water value are preserved. FSC- expert wood basing comes in hundreds of different shades and styles.

locality, locality, locality

frozen wood bases make lovely additions to a home, but there are numerous equipment to take into respect before wholesale and installing one. Take the spot into account. locality can make a big difference when investing in wood bases. frozen wood bases must be nailed to the sub-base, adding to the expense of installation and making them unsuitable for use precisely over material. So, you cannot use solid wood basing if your scope is on a chunk or in a basement.

dampness causes wood to inflate and can escort to squeaking and buckling, which is a respect for someone living near water.

frozen wood bases are belief in spots with relatively steady temperatures that alter only vaguely. .

Finishes

When purchasing a solid wood base, look for those with a factory-practical complete. This ensures no fumes from completing, no dust from sanding, and no waiting to gait on the base. Another lead to wholesale a pre-completed solid wood base is that the aluminum-oxide complete practical at the factory is greatly tougher than the typical polyurethane.

Lastly, like the beauty and love of a traditional solid wood base in your home. Buy prudently, do the study, and you can establish a pleasing base and sole piece that will last you for living to come. It is little things, such as this, that may aid you in your search. So, sit down and decide which avenue would be best for you to take.

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Solid Wood Flooring - Everyone Loves Solid Wood

Even in today's economic environment people still have a need to upgrade and remodel their homes. One of the most important areas that will impact almost every aspect of your home is literally under your nose: your floor. There are several choices in this regard, one of which is solid wood flooring. However, even this area is not so much a single choice as it is a broad area which has evolved over the years in both purpose and materials.


In years gone by, wood was an excellent material for flooring houses, but with advances in home design architects have moved away from this as advances in the field of home construction have given much better choices. Today, solid wood flooring is primarily used more for its aesthetic appeal than it is for its functional purpose. Because of that, it is far less common than it was in the past. But less common does not mean that it is rare by any stretch of the imagination.


While different manufacturers have different proprietary measures for wood, typically the flooring is no wider than 5" and no thicker than three-quarters of an inch. While length can vary, the planks are each cut from a single piece of lumber. Typically this type of flooring is not directly laid over concrete, which is one of the reasons why it has faded in popularity. It is sold as either finished (sometimes called prefinished) or unfinished. Not surprisingly, the unfinished solid wood flooring is often the cheaper of the two on average but requires the extra effort to finish it for final installation.


Even though the move away from wood as a flooring material has reduced the number of manufacturers who provide this, there are still quite a few names out there to choose from for those interested in this type of flooring. You have established names that offer a guarantee to match their longevity and brands that are prominently featured on several television shows dedicated to home renovations and repairs, as well as those that are promoted and even branded by top personalities. A web search will quickly run through a list that any hardware store will instantly recognize.


Wood may not be as popular of a choice of floor material as it was in the past, but consumers still have a choice as to what type, color, and manufacturer they choose when they decide, either to build a new house or to repair the house that they are currently in.

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Solid Flooring Basics

There are different types of flooring available in the market. The latest ones in vogue are the bamboo flooring and the cork flooring. The bamboo flooring, allow visibility as well as maintenance. It reflects light because of its smooth finish; therefore, it has the ability to make the room look cleaner and larger. Bamboo flooring though does not come cheap. It costs around $4 SF therefore; you will need to invest quite some amount of money into this flooring.


Another latest flooring is the cork flooring. It is the color of cork, deep brown with a bit of dark spots. It has a smooth finish and a shiny look. It is also durable, the cost of the cork flooring is around $2.25SF. The one that is always famous is the solid wood flooring, the oak wood or the red oak wood flooring.


There are cheaper options available in flooring too. These are the laminate flooring, these are available in huge variety of designs. These are durable and long lasting. However, these do not look as genuine as the actual hard wood floors. Laminate floors are easy to put on and remove and since these are cheap you can change them if you require to. These floors are ideal for a home where there are children and there are chances of other wooden flooring being damaged.


You will also find ceramic flooring, marble flooring, etc. used in homes. However in the western countries these flooring are hardly used because these flooring do no insulate a home against extreme cold weather. These flooring are ideal in homes where the climate outside is warm all throughout the year.


Most of the times the flooring are made easy to use and put up. Therefore, it would not be difficult if you decide to get it done yourself. However, it would be better to have someone with you because the chances are you might require some small help. But the ‘Do It Yourself’ kits also answer your queries if you have to get the job done all by yourself.


However, this flooring can be used for bathrooms and rooms where there is going to be a lot of usage of water. Marble floors happen to be the most expensive and exotic of all types of stone and ceramic flooring. The sheer white color shows taste and elegance.

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Solid Wood Floors

* Ultimate luxury floor
* Extremely hard wearing
* Range of beautiful finishes
* Choice of widths to enhance your design

When people think of a 'wooden floor', they often think of a solid wood floor, perhaps one that they've seen in an old house or perhaps in a grand banqueting room of a hotel. There's no doubt about it that solid wood is the ultimate luxury floor. They have been a dominant feature in period homes for centuries, and homeowners and designers alike have been keen to take advantage of the traditional properties of a solid wood floor and combine it with a range of looks, from traditional, country, 'shabby chic' and ultra modern.

What is a solid wood floor?

A solid wood floor is supplied as planks that are taken from one piece of timber. The tree species that are normally used for flooring include oak, beech, maple and walnut and they are available in an amazing range of colours that vary from very pale to almost black. They come in a range of widths and thicknesses which also make a surprising effect on the 'look' of a room. Very narrow planks in a big room, will give a very different result than wide planks in a smaller room, and vice versa.

Are they easy to install?

Unless you are a very experienced person who is comfortable dealing with advanced DIY projects, laying a hard wood floor is almost certainly best left to the professionals. A solid wood floor is a luxury product, and when laid by a carpenter or joiner will look stunning. However it is a natural product and its characteristics need to be taken into account. For example, the wood planks need to acclimatise in the room where they are going to be used - real wood 'moves' according to temperature and humidity. So your floor needs to adjust to your central heating habits, but it will also expand and contract according to the weather. This is why it is important for an expansion gap to be left around the outside edge of the floor. Solid wood floors are generally fitted by 'secret nailing' or being glued to the sub-floor. Individual manufacturers often supply particular tips on fitting.

How do you maintain them?

A quality solid wood floor that is well looked after will pretty much last forever. And as the popularity of them has surged in recent years, manufacturers are making it easier for their floors to look good at the beginning and for them to maintain their looks. Wood needs 'feeding' with oil, but most wood planks are now pre-finished at the manufacturing stage.

Dirt, dust and grit are the main enemies of wood floors as they grind away at the surface underfoot and make thousands of scratches, so regular brushing and vacuuming is essential. In fact, it's best to try and ensure that as little dirt as possible actually makes it into the house - put good quality door mats outside and inside doors to the exterior, to try and keep this to a minimum.

Assuming over a period of time, the floor does actually get dirty, you can use specialist wood soap cleaners that will lift the dirt from the surface. This are excellent and are used in the just the same way that you would mop a tiled or lino floor, but you must use the water sparingly - an excess of water will soak into the floor and cause it to swell and possibly stain - not what you want!

Periodically (depending on what sort of traffic you have through your rooms), a wood floor will benefit from being oiled again. When the wood is 'fed' with oil it will look as good as new again, which is one of the main advantages of a solid wood floor. Any damage can be sanded away, stained, waxed and oiled and again, it will be back to its original condition. A solid wood floor is an investment that you certainly won't regret. Enjoy!

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Solid Wood Flooring and Parquet Flooring Maintenance Guide

First thing to remember after installation of a new solid wood floor is don't drag furniture across your brand new floor as this may scratch it. Please don't destroy the natural beauty of it and put felt pads on all large or movable furniture where possible. Paruet flooring or solid wood flooring all come from trees which are living things. As a result of this they take in water and expand, so when cleaning a floor don't put excess water on the floor and don't leave water on the floor after cleaning.

When cleaning the floor it is best to use a damp cloth which is well rung out. You can use cleaners such as Bona cleaner or other cleaners but make sure the cleaner you use is suitable for the finish of your floor. Make sure the cleaner is suitable for lacquered floors or oiled floors as they are not usally suitable for each other.

If you have a lacquered floor and the lacquer is not to old you can use a screen machine. This will take most of the dirt off and take the top coat of lacquer off with a light sand. Then you can apply a new coat of lacquer with a roller like bona mega or bona traffic for hard wearing areas. This process is a quick solution to floors that have been well maintained and don't have too many deep scratches. If your floor does have lots of deep scratches then your only option is to do a full sand.This process requires all furniture to be removed form area and lacquer requires over night to dry preferably.

If you have an oiled floored the process is similar you can use a screen machine to give it a light sand and remove the dirt. Then apply a coat of hardwax oil like Osmo with the machine or with a cloth. This can be done many times and will prolong the life of your floor also it is recommended that you apply a maintenance oil every year. This will aslo prolong the life and makes your your floor look brand new. When applying a maintenance oil, clean the floor properly then apply the oil with a cloth and wipe the excess oil off with another cloth.

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Ways to Rectify Cupping in a Solid Wood Floor

Diagnosing the Cause Of, and Avoiding Cupping in Solid Wood Flooring

Cupping or dishing in solid hardwood means the boards raise slightly at their edges making the hardwood flooring uneven across its width. The cause of cupping is an imbalance of moisture through the timber. This can be a result of a spillage on the floor, or because of the hardwood flooring gaining moisture from the sub-floor material.

Taking moisture reading of the underside of the timber and comparing this with a reading taken from the upper side will confirm this.

Wood always expands when it takes on moisture. It therefore follows that moisture on the underside of the wood will make the underside expand laterally. However, the upper side of the wood which has not absorbed any moisture, so this stays at near its original size. The immense strength of the expansion of the underside of the wood is what makes the edges of the wood curl.

On nearly every incidence of cupping that I have inspected, the flooring was laid onto a solid floor using adhesive- meaning that the sub-floor was too high moisture content. A quick and simple way of identifying the problem is by taking a moisture reading of the sub-floor. Usually this is just a matter of drilling a small hole into the sub-floor between the gaps in the board, and inserting the probe from a moisture meter. The reading of the sub-floor should be around 9- 11% moisture content. If it is higher, then this could be the source of the moisture.

As part of an inspection process, I also look for evidence of leaks from appliances e.g. dishwashers, and leaks from heating pipes, and poor or zero ventilation in the room.
I also take a reading of the humidity at the time of the inspection, although this is merely a snapshot of one moment in time and does not necessarily give an indication of the humidity at an earlier time that may have caused the cupping.

However, another cause could be that the sub-floor was within the above parameters, but the wood could have been dried too aggressively before being installed. This would mean that the sub-floor was at the correct moisture content, but the wood was too dry to be installed. In a case like this, the humidity needs to be regulated quickly which can usually stabilize the problem.

Dealing With the Cupping

First of all check the integrity of the fixing of the floor. In extreme cases of buckling, the flooring can (in the case of adhesive installations), de-bond from the sub-floor. If this is the case, the floor is possibly beyond repair if in excess of 40% of the floor area is affected in this way.

Stabilize the humidity in the room as quickly as possible. If the relative humidity of the room is below 40% then this is too dry. A correct humidity level is between 45% and 60% R.H. This can be achieved by the use of a humidifier. It may then ne necessary to have the floor sanded and re-finished, which should then eliminate any further problems and restore the appearance of the flooring.

It is vital though, that the stabilization is undertaken gradually over a period, and that thorough moisture readings are taken on both sides of the timber before sanding. If the floor is sanded before the wood has stabilized, the edges of the board will be lower than the centre of the boards.

How To Avoid the Cupping

If you are about to lay a floor using a stick down method, take thorough moisture checks of the sub-floor and the humidity of the room that is to be fitted. The sub-floor should be ideally below 12% moisture content and the humidity of the room should be between 40% and 60%.

If there is any doubt regarding the integrity of sub-floor, it may be necessary to apply an epoxy resin damp proof membrane to the sub-floor. If you are installing using the secret nailing technique, then an impervious layer should be laid over the sub-floor or battens -e.g. foil, polythene membrane or builders paper.

Make sure that an adequate acclimatization period is allowed for. This is normally achieved by storing the flooring in the room for at least two weeks prior to installation. The room should be heated and ventilated in the same conditions that the floor will be used i.e. temperature and relative humidity.

Further Points to Consider

1. Tangential cut hardwoods always have greater movement than radial cut or quarter sawn hardwoods.

2. Narrow width solid hardwoods are always more stable and less prone to movement than wider width flooring.

3. Engineered flooring will always cope better with fluctuations in moisture, and climate.

4. Wood floors will always move depending on the season- e.g. in winter months slight opening of joints and cracks are to be expected.

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The Benefits of Solid Wood Flooring

We all know to an extent the warmth and beauty that real wood flooring can add to a room. Aside from its general aesthetic pleasures, there are many more benefits to having solid wood flooring than you might think.

Unlike any other form of flooring, hardwood floors retain there beauty and value for years and years to come. They even gain charm with time, as like most other natural elements, it will continue to change. Due to factors such as ware and exposure to sunlight, the wood constantly evolves; this is called patina, and is a unique benefit of a solid wood floor.

Another popular feature of hardwood flooring is the ease of maintenance. Wood flooring with extensive maintenance regimes are now a thing of the past, new technology in stains and finishes, mean that little more than sweeping is required.

Wood floors have come a long way in the past few years, and now there are more styles, types of wood, grains, and stains available than ever before. No matter what your tastes, with the variety available, you can find a wood to suit your tastes. To find your perfect floor, there are many online retailers which offer discounted wood flooring as well as free samples delivered in the post.

Wood flooring can also boost the value of your home. In a national survey of estate agents 90% said that houses with wood flooring sell faster and go for higher prices, than those without. The beauty is as well once it is down, it will retain its value unlike any other flooring, and therefore it is a real investment into your home.

The value of your home isn’t the only monetary benefit you can get from your floor. Because of the cellular structure of wood, it traps air, therefore giving it excellent insulating properties. It is important to note, that it takes 15 inches of concrete to match just 1 inch of wood. So you can save your pennies on your heating bills too.

They are also extremely good for the health of your family. Solid wood does not collect dust unlike other flooring methods, and so for families who suffer with allergies your hardwood floor could be ideal and potentially lessen the symptoms of some allergies. Unbelievably your joints and spine can also benefit from a wood floor. Because there is slightly more flexibility with wood, it means if flexes as you walk/stand meaning less stress on your bones.

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Engineered Wooden Flooring Vs Solid Wood Flooring

Engineered Wooden Flooring

Engineered floor boards come in a wide range of styles and designs, from rustic grains to tranquil floors with uniform patterning and everything in between! These boards can be laid on either a wood sub-floor or on cement. An uneven floor will be leveled prior to installation so that the floor is laid evenly. A special high quality foam underlay, with built in moist barrier, reduces creaking, movement and sound transmission.

So what is the advantage of engineered wooden Flooring?

-Relatively quick installation with minimal fuss, mess, smells or dust.

-Floor can be placed on most surfaces.

-Surface is pre-finished and needs no sanding or sealing once lay.

-Your new floor is usable straight away.

-Completely sealed surface eliminates smells, smoke and fumes from lower levels choice of lacquered or oiled finish

-Easily resurfaced and sealed

Solid wood flooring

Solid wood flooring comes in many varieties of wood, widths, thickness and colors to suit almost any requirement. Solid wood flooring is surface nailed onto joists or a quality sub-floor, but can also be glued onto a concrete or wood sub-floor with plenty of allowance for wood expansion. With the proper care and attention, your solid wood floor will last a lifetime.

The advantages of a solid wood floor are:

-Huge selection to choose from antique to modern

-Very flexible to create the exact look your require

-Random widths for extra character and individuality

-Un-finished boards can be treated on site to your color requirements

-Pre-finished boards easy and quick to fit and are usable straight away

-Easily refurbished and sealed

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Solid Wood Flooring in the Home

A solid wood floor can add warm tones and a stunning finish to any room. Constructed with pieces of solid wood they have tongue and groove sides so they can be easily connected together. Each piece has a different grain which combines to form a unique look whenever it is used. There is a huge variety of solid wood floors available with many types of wood species, colours and widths available at hardwood flooring suppliers.

The most popular option is oak wood flooring. Europe and America are both the main consumer and producer of this type of hardwood flooring. Oak is available in various types including red, white and European oak, each with their own hardness, grain and colour characteristics.

A cherry wood floor is another popular choice due to its striking grain markings and solid composition. Like other wood floors it is highly resistant to damage. Over time cherry wood flooring darkens from a pale pink colour to warm dark red tone

Exotic hardwoods can give a room a unique look are now readily available at major hardwood flooring suppliers. They can be found for sale alongside other classic real wood flooring such as maple, oak and ash. Real wood flooring can be purchased in pre-finished or unfinished styles. When laying unfinished wood flooring the product can be recoated many times to increase its life and make it last considerably longer than other flooring options.

When laying solid wood floors, begin with a flat, dry and solid sub floor such as concrete, wood or cork. Carpet is not suitable as a sub base and must be removed. Any deviations in level should be rectified with suitable floor filler. A plastic barrier to stop moisture is recommended for floors that are being installed on concrete or in damp areas. Harwood flooring should also be allowed time to acclimatise before it is set down by leaving it the room for several days. For a bathroom wood floor contact you local flooring supplier for suitable product support.

If you are using a wood floor sub base the solid wood floor should be installed at right angles to the original floorboards to aid strength and stability. An expansion area around the perimeter of the room is also recommended to allow for contractions and expansions throughout the winter and summer months. This expansion gap can be covered with skirting boards or a cover strip.

Solid wood floors are tough and hard wearing and by taking care of them their life can be prolonged. Keep gravel, dirt and grit at bay by using a doormat outside and inside the front door. Regular sweeping and vacuuming will take care of any dirt that does settle on the floor and will reduce scratches and everyday wear and tear. Avoid wearing stiletto heels on solid wood floors and if possible only wear indoor shoes or slippers on its surface.

Nothing comes close to the finish that can be achieved with a solid wood floor. By installing solid wood flooring the value of a home often increases and it can give a home the edge over similar property on the market. Solid wood floors are stain resistant and do not trap dust so are especially good for allergy sufferers. There is a wide range of tones, styles and prices on the market so whether you are looking for a cheap wood floor or the ultimate in hardwood flooring, you are sure to find the right match for your room.

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Solid Wood Flooring

Wooden floors are one of the most popular kinds of floor coverings that we see today. Not only are they a good investment, they are warm and inviting. They also give your home an old-fashioned look. As an added benefit, some of the new ones can be easily installed by simply following the manufactures' instructions. They also are available in a large assortment of patterns. There are many varieties of woods to choose from also. This material is available in two ways; Solid Wood and Engineered Wood.

As the name suggests, the solid wood varieties are made of one hundred percent natural wood. It is manufactured from inch thick pieces of solid wood that have been carefully sliced from a tree. North American hardwoods such as oak and maple are mainly used for this purpose. Brazilian cherry and Australian cypress trees are utilized in the creating of the higher end and exotic floors. These solid wood versions are quite expensive. However, they are not very durable. They are vulnerable to disease and damage. Solid hardwood can be affected by any changes in temperature; they shrink with cold and expand with heat and humidity. To help accommodate for this expansion and contraction, small gaps are left between the pieces during the installation process.

Engineered wood floors, on the other hand, are ready made floors. They are already stained and varnished when they are purchased from the lumber yard. They consist of three pieces of plywood that have been glued together during the manufacturing process. The top piece has a beautiful factory applied finish on it. Engineered floors are less expensive than solid wood would be. However, it is much easier to damage.

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Solid Wood Floor Installation

To install a solid wood floor in your home you must have your sub-floor prepared. You do this by making sure it is sound and level, the moisture level is correct and the room temperature is approximately the same level in which you are going to live in. Also all materials have to be on site one week before installation to climatize the wood.

You choose the design, colour and variety you like from samples given and then you place your order. There are different species available which include Oak, European oak, Prime oak, Rustic oak, Walnut, Merbau, Iroko, Rhodesian teak, Maple, teak, ebony, wenge. Make sure your flooring comes end matched and is kiln dried to less than 10% moisture.

When fitting a floor on a wood floor base the sub- floor can be boarded out with ply. Generally upstairs you don't have a problem with the moisture level but downstairs always check for this to make sure you have an air flow from the front to back of your house and that your air flow bricks are cleaned out and not blocked.

Cut out your door frames first by using a saw place on top of the flooring material up against the frame and saw the frame out so that the floor fits snugly underneath. You may need to chisel it out manually. On wood floors lay the flooring tongue side towards you and secure down with a porta nailer every 400mm. On a concrete floor use a sausage adhesive like Silka and lay a 10ml by 10ml bead 400mm apart in lines like batons.

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Discover the Potential of Solid Wood Flooring

Solid wood flooring tends to last a very long time and you can almost watch it change with you as you and your family grow up, so does your floor. The beauty of having wood floors is that you have a living material right under you and as a living material it adapts to its surroundings. For example if it happens to be very cold your floor will shrink (only ever so slightly) and if it is very hot it will expand. Seeing your floor change is a beautiful thing and worth every penny of the price you paid!

Solid wood flooring comes in all different materials. Pre-finished and un-finished oak. Oak is especially pretty when it changes colour as it gets older. Aged and antique oak flooring is also lovely in the right settings such as an old farmhouse.
# Ash. Quiet light in colour yet a huge variety.
# Bamboo. Renowned for its strength, this material comes in four different choices. Natural, carbonised, vertical or horizontal.
# Beech. Light brown in colour, this wood is known for its heaviness and fine grain. This floor works very well in heavy traffic areas.
# Birch. This is a pale wood that is also quite heavy.
# Cherry. Pale pink in colour, this wood will turn dark red once aged.
# Hevea. One of the eco friendly wood floors, this wood is light in colour and could be compared to ash.
# Kempas. This wood is from the same family as the cherry tree. It also has a dark reddish colour and is a very hard wood with a course grain.
# Larch. This is one of the few woods that are waterproof. It is a softwood and is often used for outdoor furniture.
# Maple. Maple comes in a huge variety of colours from pale yellow all the way through to black.
# Merbau. This flooring gives a high class finish. It is available in many colours. It is, however, rarely used for flooring any more due to illegal milling.
# Pine. Pine tends to be used as basic flooring as it is quick to produce and replace.
# Teak. Again this isn't used very often sue to restraints but is a medium weight timber.
# Walnut. This hardwood flooring is extremely hard. It has a chocolatey colour but is quite expensive.

Choosing which solid wood flooring is right for you can be a difficult choice. It will depend on the style of the room, the age of the house, where you are going to put it and what look you are trying to achieve. Wood floors are becoming so much more popular than carpet because they give the room so much more character and with each different wood comes a different look. Even with the designs of the grain it can make a huge difference. So when you decide which wood to use for your wood floors be sure to pick the one that you feel happiest with and not just the one that the interior design magazine said would look great!

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Solid Wood Flooring - Improving the Look and Value of Your Home?

Solid wood flooring or hardwood floors are something that can add a lot of value to your home. However, there are a lot of things to consider when buying your solid wood flooring. From the type of area that it will be installed in, to the types of people that live in your home and even where your home is located.

One of the first things that you will want to consider before purchasing your solid wood flooring is where you are going to put it. This will actually dictate what type of flooring that you will use. For instance, a basement will be a little damper so you will want to avoid solid wood flooring. Instead of using this, you can use engineered flooring or laminate flooring.

You may also want to use the alternatives in areas like the kitchen and bathroom because of the possibility of getting wet. The kitchen can have a lot of spills and possible water leaks and the bathroom speaks for itself. These other types of flooring will offer you the same look without the danger of having your solid wood flooring ruined.

Once you leave those areas, your options are much more open where you can use solid hardwood flooring. From there, you can pick your favorite type of wood and choose to have your floor done with it. Now there are varying depths of solid wood flooring and that will dictate the method that can be used to install it as well as how expensive it is going to be.

Regardless of the type of hardwood floor that you choose, there is no mistaking the fact that it will dramatically improve the appearance of your home. Instead of having dingy, worn out carpets, the look of shining new hardwood floors is sure to increase the overall value of the home as well.

While it may cost you a little more to install, it will more than pay for itself over the years. If you are intimidated by the upfront price, all you need to do is sit down and look at the one-time cost versus the cost over the years of having carpet in your home. Solid wood flooring will more than likely outlast the homeowner. Carpeting not only needs constant care such as vacuuming and cleaning, it also wears out in about 5 years. By the time you install it a second time, you have probably surpassed the cost of installing your hardwood floors.

Hardwood flooring presents you with many options to improve the look of your home. Even if you decide to go with one of the less expensive alternatives, you are assured many years of a quality looking floor that will surely stand the test of time. If it is cared for properly, it will be the last floor that you have to install in your home. Just remember to avoid installing solid wood flooring in damp areas and use engineered or laminate flooring in its place.

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How to Care For a Solid Wood Floor

Anyone can live with a natural woodrn floor and enjoy its lifetime value with just little care and maintenance. Looking at a solid wood floor, anyone can immediately sense its warmth, natural beauty and richness. In our own time, all of us will eventually discover and appreciate the visual harmony and distinct personality of our homes through our solid wood floor.

Along with the proper care and maintenance that you must observe, you must also be able to accurately assess the overall condition of your wooden floor. If your solid wood floor which was installed a few years already appears old and forlorn, then you may have to check on how well you have provided the necessary care and maintenance.

What are the things that must be done? Before you finally decide on anything, you must first have to check the overall condition of the floors finish to find out whether it needs special type of cleaning or a more focused repair.

You can follow these guidelines in evaluating the overall condition of your solid wood floor and finish:

1. Checking the condition of wood flooring finish

Verify whether the finish of your wooden floor has already worn off or just dirty requiring simple cleaning. See if the floor finish is chipped, gouged, dull or scraped. In order to ascertain if the finish is already worn, you can pour 2 tablespoon of water in a place in your home considered as a high-traffic area.

If the water is immediately absorbed and leaves a darkened mark, then it is an indication that its finish is already worn and the floor is susceptible to water damage. On the other hand, if the water is not immediately absorbed and leaves a slight blemish on the wood surface, then the finish is just moderately worn. If you get water beads, then it indicates that the floor finish is in good condition. Repeat the same procedure in the medium and low traffic portions in your homes to determine the overall condition of your solid wood floor.

2. Checking the condition of your wooden flooring

If the finish of the wood flooring is already worn, then chances are the wood is already damaged. Check for any gouges, cuts, burns, hole, stains, warps or cracked boards. If there are indications of significant damage to your solid wood floor, then repair or replacement maybe the only option that are available for you. This must be done before you do any deep cleaning and application of maintenance coating to your solid wood floor.

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How to Install a Solid Wood Floor?

In as far as natural appeal and durability is concerned, wood is the top choice for our floors. Whether it is in the living room, family rooms, and dining rooms and in the other parts of the home; wood flooring will always be considered as the top option for homeowners and contractors alike for it is both practical and attractive. Many homeowners, though, are not too keen in using solid wood floor in the bathrooms as wood contracts and expands because of moisture and can lead to rotting if it remains in contact with water for an extended time. In reality, solid wood floors can be used in the bathroom as long as the proper finishing is done and that the required care and maintenance is observed by homeowners.

Solid Wooden Floors Pre-Installation Activities

Make sure that your new set of solid wood floor is laid on a level, smooth, structurally sound and clean base flooring. Before you commence with the actual installation of your wood flooring, it is essential that these are stacked indoors for several days so that the wood can adjust to the humidity level inside your home.

Wooden Flooring Installation Steps

1. Follow an installation plan where the solid wood floor is installed perpendicular to the joists of your floor.

2. The locations of the floor joists along the wall must be marked for reference.

3. The sub-floor must be covered with a layer of asphalt felt to minimize squeaks and to prevent moisture accumulation.

4. Make a mark of the centerline where the solid wood floor is going to be installed.

5. If you are installing the wood floor in a room that is not a perfect square, place the tongue of the first row in a parallel position to your centerline and rip the side of the groove at the angle which is parallel to your wall.

6. Do not fail to lay out several rows of the boards during the installation and stagger the boards in such a way that an end joint does not come closer than half a foot to the end joint of the succeeding row.

7. As you are installing the strips, cut pieces of no less than 8 inches in length to fit at each row's end. You must also allow for half an inch space from the wall.

8. Fasten down the solid wood flooring to the subflooring. Once the installation of the solid wood floor is completed, sanding and finishing follows.

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